My Song of Bayawan

Long ago, we came to this place where a child can walk out into the sea without harm. Both the sun and the clouds that bring rain are born daily just beyond this very island, in the place where the sky first touches the endless waters. We constructed fine homes from bamboo and the leaves of palm, our Bahay Kubo, and then we stitched good seeds into the soil. We affixed two outriggers to our boats so we might venture to and from the bigger waters, where the schooling fish have invented colors unto themselves.

Here is where you shall find us yet today, shaded by the broad leaves at Bayawan. Our feet yet remain wet from the ocean’s water. And while in one hand we hold the hands of our children, in the other, we offer the gift of food to our family and neighbors.

A Boat on the Sandy Beach in Bayawan

—Mitchell Hegman

Small Fish

Bayawan is located on the southeastern coast of Negros Island in the Philippines. The coastline here is interesting in that it is sandy and shallow enough that a small child could wade far out to sea in many places. This makes the waters immediately offshore ill-suited for fishing boats or even sport-fishing. However, these shallow waters do support a thriving population of minnows. Interestingly enough, there is a market for those. While walking along the sandy shore, we came upon a man who has constructed his own contraption for gleaning minnows from where they school amid the waves breaking at the shore. This fisherman is particularly interested in the fry of fish that he can sell live to the operators of fish farms, also located just offshore.

Fishing for Fry

—Mitchell Hegman

House Geckos

House geckos are ever-present in the Philippines. Known locally as "butiki," geckos are permanent residents in many houses and places of business. These small lizards are as ubiquitous here on the islands as sagebrush is on the open hillsides and in the wide basins of Western Montana.

Geckos are commonly seen high on the walls and ceilings and are not given a second thought by the locals. They are generally viewed positively by Filipinos due to their role in controlling insect populations. In fact, many households appreciate their presence, considering them natural pest control agents. The geckos' distinctive chirping calls, often heard in the evening, are a familiar and somewhat comforting background noise.

I pretty much got used to seeing geckos on the walls around me within an hour of my arrival in the Philippines. I will happily cohabit with them. I am in favor of anything that keeps the population of creepy-crawly things in check.

A Gecko on the Counter of a Local Coffee Shop (Near my Coffee Cup)

A Gecko on the Wall in a Hall Near Our Room

A Gecko on the Ceiling

—Mitchell Hegman

New Life

Living in the Philippine province is not merely a way of life; it is life in the most direct sense of the word. Living here, you often harvest your own fruit directly from the trees. You may raise or harvest a number of “vegetables” that grow wild in great abundance. Someone in your extended family will likely have some form of livestock—pigs and goats being the most common.

As good fortune would have it, we were treated to the addition of new life yesterday when a sow pig tended by Desiree’s Uncle Carlos gave birth to 13 piglets. Her uncle spent the entire day with the mother and babies. He washed each newborn piglet and made sure each one spent time nursing. All the while, he ensured the mother was not in any distress.

I found myself impressed with how cute the piglets are. Granted, most will be headed to a dinner plate at some point in the future, but for now, I am enjoying them as new life.

The Sow Between Births

Carlos With a Newborn

Piglets Nursing

—Mitchell Hegman

Mahi-Mahi

Early in the morning, we arrived at the place where fishermen catch fish and where the ocean either throws itself at sharp rocks or shuffles sand together with bits of seashells and smoothed stone. The place, “Nagbo-alao” in the local tongue, is where fishermen (of few words) sell their catch in a small, unadorned open market. Some of the fish are small, some big, some strikingly beautiful to behold. As good fortune would have it, two small lobsters, a variety of beautiful school-fish, and a mahi-mahi (dolphinfish) of about 15 pounds had been brought early to the market.

We came to the market by way of a rented tricycle with the express idea of picking up some fish and swimming in the ocean before taking the fish back home again. We accomplished all of this, and I even managed to collect a few seashells and fill my sandals with sand. Desiree bought the mahi-mahi, the two lobsters, a few squid, and several pretty fish. All of this was purchased for less than what we would pay for a modest cut of salmon at our local Costco.

For our return trip home, our tricycle driver tied the big fish to the back of our machine, and we rattled away a bit damper and sandier than when we arrived. I have posted a few images from our trip.

Nagbo-alao

Mahi-Mahi (Held by Our Driver)

Two Lobster

The Big Fish Tied to Our Machine

Desiree Cleaning the Smaller Fish

—Mitchell Hegman

Getting There

Getting from one place to the next is often the most adventurous part of the day here in the Philippines. For the last several days, Desiree, her daughter Ina, and I have been getting around by means of Grab rides in automobiles, tricycles, motorcycles, on foot, and occasionally in a car owned by a relative.

I most favor catching rides on tricycles (potpots), which you generally hail on the streets. The majority of these little buggies have a canopy over your head and a front windshield of some fashion, but the sides and back are open. Granted, this sort of travel would not work in a sub-zero Montana winter, but here in the tropics, the air flowing around you feels pretty good. I also like how you feel a kind of personal connection with the ebb and flow of other traffic as you rattle and squeak along the narrow streets. When out in the wilds of the province, I love the feel of the countryside falling in all around you as you speed along.

While most tricycles are something like a motorcycle and sidecar, others are more like a motorcycle combined with a wagon and can carry a half-dozen folks if they squeeze in appropriately. Weirdly enough, I even enjoy squeezy rides.

Here’s to getting there!

Catching a Ride at Desiree’s Aunt and Uncle’s House

Desiree in Dumaguete

Catching a Bigger Machine at the Bayawan Tricycle Terminal

In the Flow of Traffic

—Mitchell Hegman

Happy Children Circulating All Around

If you were to ask me what single thing has most impressed me about the Philippines, I have a ready answer: the children. I love how sweet, respectful, and well-mannered they are. I also really appreciate the way they are raised here.

As mentioned in a previous blog, Desiree’s immediate and extended family live in a cluster of houses amid a jungle comprised of fruit trees. The children from the various family homes tend to circulate from house to house, freely entering the always-open doors of any house. Aunt, uncle, cousin, brother, sister: there is no difference in these. Family is family. All of the adults are active in raising all of the children.

When not in one of the houses, the children are outside playing in rainwater, engaged in physical games, or doing the same things all kids do everywhere (making sure to produce plenty of noise in the process). The children are given a lot of room to do things on their own. And, most impressively, the older kids take it upon themselves to tend to the little ones and make sure they don’t get into any manner of trouble. Put simply, the children are a well-behaved troupe of their own.

I am posting three photographs featuring some of the children. This is the most beautiful thing in the Philippines.

A Gathering of Children

Three Companions

Playing in Rainwater

—Mitchell Hegman

Fresh Coconut

Desiree’s father lives just outside Bayawan on the island of Negros. His house, along with the houses of many other relatives (Desiree’s aunts, uncles, cousins, etc.), is both surrounded and shaded by an assortment of fruit trees. We are talking lemon trees, mangoes, cocoa, rambutan, pomelo, rose apple, banana, avocado, breadfruit, and so on—all of the trees carefully tended by generations of her family.

On our first visit to her father, I mentioned to Ash, her brother, that I love rose apples and had not eaten one for many years. Within two minutes, Ash was scuttling up a tree and dropping ripe rose apples down on the ground for me.

Yesterday, Desiree mentioned to her uncle that she wanted a fresh coconut. Within two minutes, her cousin, Carlo, was climbing high (scary high) into a coconut tree and dropped several fresh coconuts to the ground. Her uncle Hernan whacked a couple open, and we feasted on the fruits of the labor of many generations of a close and loving family.

Look carefully at the photograph of coconut tree to find Carlo high above the ground with nothing but his own strength and ingenuity keeping him there. 

A Rose Apple

Carlo High in the Coconut Tree

Uncle Hernan Cutting Open a Coconut

Desiree With Split Coconuts

The Fruits of Labor

—Mitchell Hegman

The Dumaguete Public Market

In my visits to China, Vietnam, and the Philippines, some of my favorite ventures have been those to the wet markets. These markets are a wondrous splash of colors, strange fruits, twisted vegetables, and exotic fish and creatures from the sea.

Wet markets are not for the squeamish. The aroma is often a forced marriage between fish and earthy produce. Visually, the fish and meat sections may be a bit overwhelming for those of us who are queasy at heart. You’ll likely see more than one entire critter undone and dismembered from one of its ends to the other.

Yesterday, we stopped at the Dumaguete Public Market to pick up squid and fresh fruit. Many of the fruits here are new to me and taste remarkably good. I appreciate that everything at the market is fresh daily. The fruit tastes brighter and the fish richer. Fortunately for me, I love eating fruit daily, and I like fish.

In my way of thinking, the offering is a plethora of good stuff daily, and I would happily go to the market every day of my life. It is a far better adventure than dodging shopping carts in a box store.

A Colorful Display of Fish

A Vendor Holding Her Squid

Fruit on Display

Desiree Buying Fresh Fruit

Mangosteen Fruit

—Mitchell Hegman

Island Hopping

We hopped from one island to another. More precisely, we flew from Manila on the island of Luzon to Dumaguete on the island of Negros. In the local way of thinking, we left the rat race of Manila for the province—the countryside.

The first thing worth mentioning is about boarding airport buses and airplanes. Filipinos approach loading buses and airplanes the same way they approach driving. There are no discernible rules, and it's all about jockeying and vying for position without being overtly rude about it.

The flight itself took only a bit over an hour, but directed us through some beautiful cloud formations. Landing in Dumaguete pleased me immensely. I am definitely a “province guy.” The airport is very small, and the streets surrounding it are not congested. Also, mountains rise up into the sky immediately outside the city.

This is good stuff. Out in the country stuff!

Rising Cloud

Clouds Boiling Up

Landing at Dumaguete

Desiree and Ina on the Tarmac in Dumaguete

Waiting for a Ride at the Airport

--Mitchell Hegman

An Important Lesson

Posted at the end of this blog is a photograph of me holding my own personal wad of toilet paper. An interesting thing, the toilet paper. Here in the Philippines, public restrooms (“comfort rooms” or “CR” in the local vernacular) in places such as shopping malls do not supply toilet paper. The idea is to bring your own toilet paper when you make a visit to such a comfort room.

Well, I learned this lesson the hard way.

After a trip to the CR while at a shopping mall, I said to Desiree, “Des, there was no toilet paper in the bathroom. I had to be creative to get back out of there again.”

Desiree laughed. “You have to take your own paper when you go. I forgot to tell you that part.”

“Yes, you did.”

Lesson learned. Desiree and I immediately stopped at a store and purchased a small pack of tissue. In the future, I will always have a modest wad of paper with me.

Toilet Paper

—Mitchell Hegman

Taal Volcano

Taal Volcano, located on Luzon Island about two hours outside of Manila in the crawl of traffic, is one of the most active and complex volcanoes in the Philippines. It sits within Taal Lake, creating a picturesque yet deceptive beauty. Geologically, Taal is a caldera volcano with numerous smaller craters and a history of frequent eruptions due to its position on the Pacific Ring of Fire. Historically, Taal has erupted over 30 times since the 16th century, causing significant loss of life and property. Interestingly enough, the last major eruption occurred on January 12, 2020, only one day after Desiree and her family visited Taal. This last eruption led to widespread evacuations and disruption. Ash fell on Desiree’s sister’s house in nearby Cavite.

We traveled to Taal Lake in a caravan of three vehicles, which carried Desiree, me, Desiree’s daughters, her sister May and family, a cousin, and an aunt and uncle and their family. While at the lake, the lot of us ate dinner at a gorgeous restaurant called The Bag of Beans. The food and views proved excellent.

I have posted images of Taal Lake with the volcano (the islands) at the center, along with captures of The Bag of Beans and Desiree’s family.

Taal Volcano at the Center of the Lake

Taal Lake Expansive View

The Bag of Beans Restaurant

Desiree’s Family

—Mitchell Hegman

Street Wiring

Technology has a definitive signature in Metro Manila—a signature strung aloft in a rather cursive style, using wires, power lines, and communication cables as the medium. As you drive or walk the narrow side streets, you cannot help but notice the dark and often disordered web of wires and cables strung overhead only a few feet above the streets and sidewalks.

I suspect a number of the wires and cables are presently (and have long been) out of service. Even at Desiree’s house, several cables have been abandoned and left at dead ends, the result of her switching internet service providers and ceasing to use her landline for phone service.

All this said, as an electrician, I find a weird charm in the messy display of wires. The wires and cables offer distinct proof of efforts made by an assortment of technicians over the years.

I have shared three photographs I captured as we whisked along the street in a Grab ride. These photographs by no means capture the wildest displays of cables and wires, but they give you some idea of the web created aloft.

Wires and Cables Along the Street

—Mitchell Hegman

Upside-Down

I am presently upside-down in time in the Philippines, some 7,000 miles from the lemon tree in my sunroom. To be more exact, I am in Makati. If you are unfamiliar, Makati is located in Metro Manila and is known for being the financial hub of the Philippines. It hosts numerous multinational corporations, banks, and embassies. Makati is characterized by its modern skyline, upscale shopping centers, vibrant nightlife, and diverse dining options. It is also home to cultural and historical sites, museums, and several art galleries. Desiree’s house is in a residential area of Makati.

As of 2024, Metro Manila, also known as the National Capital Region (NCR) of the Philippines, has an estimated population of approximately 13.8 million people. The region is highly urbanized and densely populated, covering an area of 619.57 square kilometers. This results in a population density of about 22,215 people per square kilometer, making it one of the most densely populated areas globally.

The streets here are decidedly busy.

Time, as I mentioned previously, is a bit out-of-whack. If I am sitting here in a chair at 9:00 in the evening drinking a glass of red wine before bed, my lemon tree back in Montana is just seeing the first righteous sunlight of the day, and my buddies are having breakfast at 7:00 in the morning—making me 10 hours wonky. Granted, drinking beer does qualify as breakfast in Montana, so we may be boozing on both sides of the planet. But that is a story all unto itself.

Today, I am posting a couple of images of Makati captured from our hotel room (on the 21st floor).

Makati by Day

Makati at Night

—Mitchell Hegman

The Marine Mammal Center

The Marine Mammal Center is located on the coastline just north of San Francisco in Sausalito. The center was founded in 1975 with a mission to advance global ocean conservation through marine mammal rescue and rehabilitation, scientific research, and education. It rescues and treats injured, sick, and orphaned marine mammals along the California coast, primarily focusing on species like seals, sea lions, and otters. To date, the center's efforts have rescued more than 24,000 marine mammals along 600 miles of California coastline and the Big Island of Hawaiʻi. Through its work, the center has significantly contributed to the understanding of marine mammal health and ocean ecosystems, garnering recognition as a leader in marine mammal science and conservation.

In recent years, human conflicts have increased the number of required rescues. Helen, doing her part to offset this, volunteers her time regularly at the center. She took us there for a tour. Posted today are two images from our tour of the center.

Rescue Animals Catching Some Sun

Elmo (Full-Sized Bull Elephant Seal Replica)

Note: Adult males may grow to over 13 feet in length and weigh up to 4,500 pounds.

—Mitchell Hegman

The Geographic Center of San Francisco

The precise center of San Francisco is 37° 45' 16.3502” north latitude by 122° 26' 33.1594” west longitude. This matters to me because my daughter Helen’s apartment is less than two blocks away from the two-inch brass medallion embedded into a sidewalk along the 700 block of Corbett Street near Twin Peaks marking the ‘Center of the City.’

While on a walk through the city with Helen and Desiree, I made sure we stopped at the center of the city so the girls could point out the precise place. Today, I am sharing the photograph I captured there, along with a couple pictures of the city itself.

The Geographic Center of San Francisco

The City Below

A Lovely Hillside Neighborhood

—Mitchell Hegman