If you glance at the first photograph I’ve posted
today, you’ll see, in the foreground, some large spiky-looking fruit. That’s
durian. If you are unfamiliar, durian is the train-wreck of fruit in the
tropics. This is due to the horrendous, off-putting scent emitted from the
fruit once it is sliced open.
Travel and food writer Richard Sterling states that
"its odor is best described as pig-excrement, turpentine, and onions,
garnished with a gym sock."
Interestingly enough, the smell is only the opening
act, a kind of olfactory toll you must pay before marching in for a taste. Once
cut open, the flesh inside is soft and custard-like, with a flavor that seems
to argue with itself: sweet, savory, faintly nutty, and somehow reminiscent of
things that ought not belong in fruit at all. Some swear by it, speaking of
durian with something near unwavering loyalty. Others recoil at first encounter
and never quite recover. Here in the Philippines, though, it is treated not as
a novelty but as a matter of fact—another offering from the tropics, equal
parts challenge and reward, waiting patiently for you to decide which side of
the argument you fall on.
I tried durian while in Vietnam in 2009 and tried
it again here in the Philippines recently. I would describe the flavor as sweet
at the start, with a weird, chemical, industrial-cleaning-agent finish. The
smell is such that many establishments in Vietnam would not allow you to bring
it inside. I don’t wholly object to durian, but it is not a favorite by any
measure.
Durian on Display (and Desiree)
Open Durian Fruit (Wikipedia)
—Mitchell
Hegman